I spent a few nights in Bangkok over the week for a work conference. Part of the conference program was the usual Gala Dinner and cultural show on the banks of the coffee-coloured Chao Phraya. It was interesting to note the striking similarities of the Thai Royal Court dance and the courtly dancing of the Javanese. Watching the dance I could almost imagine myself being in a "pendopo" (open pavilion) at a "Kraton" (palace) in Solo, Central Java. There are similarities in rhythm and presentation. It is in the flex of the hands, the stance of the body and the flashing of the eyes.
Many Cambodians will tell you that the music and dance performed in the courts of Siam in the last six centuries originated from Cambodia. Sorry to get historical on you but about 600 years ago in 1431 the Kingdom of Siam based in Ayutthaya invaded the Khmer civilisation based in Siem Reap, the builders of Angkor Wat. The story goes that the Siamese carted the whole of the Khmer culture, its books and priests, its nobility and dancing girls, back to Siam.
I'm sure I wasn't just imagining it but you see, it is also said that the Khmer civilisation was established in in the 9th century by Jayavarman II, who himself had been raised by the builders of Borobudur in distant Central Java. Hence the similarities in the royal court dances of Java and Thailand - brought over a thousand years via Cambodia.
While we may think that Central Java, Bangkok and Brunei have little in common, in truth, South East Asians have had thousands of years of rubbing up against each other. In fighting wars, participating in trade, general travel, the various cultures appear distinct, but in truth the cultures we now see are a result of thousands of years of commingling.
So really what I'm trying to say here is how similar Bandar Seri Begawan is to Bangkok - I kid you not.
Bangkok and Bandar Seri Begawan both have a river running through them.
While you could not compare the mighty Chao Phraya to the Sungai Brunei - The Chao Phraya is part of a river system that bisects an enormous country that flows from the Himalayas to the Gulf of Siam. It is a large working river, on which people commute, play and live. Its flood plains provide fertile agricultural land that feeds millions.
Different in size and toxic silt perhaps but look at videos of the floating market of Bangkok on YouTube and you will see familiar images of ladies in their wooden boats selling their wares of fruits and vegetables akin to our Padian ladies of the Brunei of yore, straw hats and all. Tanned children with dark hair in their spendet gleefully jumping off wooden jetties. Stilt houses over the river are a common sight all over South East Asia, and indeed, both Bangkok and BSB have been monikered, “the Venice of the East”. The similarity is in the fact that both cities grew up centered on the river.
Thai cultural dancers wear costumes of cloth woven with gold threads that reminded me very much of the fine golden sheen of our own songket. The accouterments the dancers wore were reminiscent of the golden headgear worn by Bruneian brides during Malam Bebedak. Perhaps these days Bruneians have developed a more modest approach to dressing than the Thais, but I bet you we were rocking the same style centuries ago.
There are aspects of the characteristics of Thais and Bruneians that are common to both. These are a gentle and dignified demeanor, love of family and respect for tradition. Both nations are generally seen as consensus seeking and tolerant.
Brunei and Thailand also have great veneration of the Monarch. We love our King; it's as simple as that.
Yes, obviously Bangkok has got traffic, travelers and titty-bars. On the face of it, there are vast differences, but on a close examination, it is heartening to find how similar, and familiar in truth we all really are.
@emmagoodegg
Illustration by Cuboi Art.
For the online version click here.
Comments