It's been a busy month for new restaurants and new menus. Kaizen Sushi has opened a branch in town by the Brunei River next to the Yayasan complex. The owners have thought about the design and brought some trendiness. There's a theatrical Japanese entrance, with the quintessential Japanese garden look. Grey granite stepping stones with tiny loose grout makes one teeter in one's work heels. Upstairs the fairly large area felt slightly cramped, just as you would in square-foot starved Japan. What they wouldn't have in Japan is the beautifully framed view of Kampung Ayer, fabulous in the midday sun.
The food? Sushi was fresh, zingy and springy, and prepared with care and thought, as the original Kaizen in Kiarong is known for. There were some complaints of rubbery unagi, but we enjoyed tuna belly and salmon belly, lightly (and fashionably) torched. Nigiri sushi was properly bite sized and care had been taken with the rice (it is surprising how few restaurants get this right, it is after all half of the sushi). Service was crisp, an important attribute for a restaurant doing lunch hour.
Regent Square in Kiulap has welcomed Sorriso, a new Italian restaurant taking over the space left by an earlier Italian restaurant. I prefer the welcoming vibe of the latest version.
The personality of the Chef Salvo, who heads the kitchen, comes through in the food. You could look at the chef and eat his food and think yes, he cooked this. The cooking is epitomized by the Beef Lasagna - luscious and sticky comfort food, made by a warm and jovial personality.
The Chef usually comes out of the kitchen to explain his specials and to try to up sell more exotic ingredients like truffles or wild mushrooms. The menu also had locally sourced produce, like the red snapper or other fish from the local fish market. We did like that effort. There is a pizza counter and it is a standard operating procedure to invite children to knead their own pizza dough, a warm and indulgent service that sets the tone for the home cooked taste of the food. Sorriso treats you like family.
The welcome at Spaghettini at the Empire is certainly less warm, more corporate, but the service did improve over the course of a long dinner. Care is taken to ensure that you are looked after all at times by an at times over wrought but well meaning front of house.
An amuse bouche of salmon on a crouton topped with lemon foam sets the tone for a new “high end” menu. This featured contemporary presentations of classic Italian dishes. Beef Carpaccio comes with balsamic jelly and truffle sorbet. “Coquille St Jacque” was scallops done three ways that included a delicious scallop mousse. The trick of mixing up desert and main course continues with mustard ice cream on a steak, and slow cooked ox tail presented like a chocolate brownie surrounded by m&m’s.
A lot of care and effort seems to have gone into the food, with some delicious results. Some dishes, like the chunky tomato terrine and the slightly disappointing apple tarte tatin may have to be re thought.
Local Chef Ajoy Omar came out when we were just finishing dessert. He spoke with a touch of nerves and was keen about wanting to cook food differently. He certainly showed that he is knowledgeable about food and the catering business.
At that to me is one of the nicest things about Spaghettini, it showcases the cooking of a local talent, who is passionate and curious of his craft. It seems that he had opportunities to do other things, but he choose cooking as a profession and has pursued it as his calling. Chase your dreams young Simba!
We were told that the ox-tail was locally inspired and the produce sourced locally. Chef Ajoy also shared his dismay at the difficulty with sourcing other local produce-for example, locally grown tomatoes produces juice that runs clear, which then cannot be used for his jellies or foams.
With all these fancy new dining options, its nice to see that we Bruneians are taking an interest in what we shovel into our mouths and put on our plates. Hopefully, this will also translate into an interest in producing good quality local ingredients, such as fish and meat, and the elusive juicy tomato.
@emmagoodegg
Illustration by Cuboi Art.
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